Tuesday, 5 August 2014

My Images of SEE - 08:44, Thursday 18th August

The cabin was hot, so we opened the window. But the noise from the train was loud as it was the next thing to our carriage. We took in the dusk, then played some card games. We then went on to our separate bunks. Still being hot, but with the shutter being down to save the morning night pouring in, I put a loo roll between it and the window ledge. That gave me some respite from the heat. At 05:00 we were awoken by Romanian border control. Passport then customs questions. 30 minutes later we had the same on the Serbian side. We then drifted off again. Prior to this, at one station (presumably Timisoara) we heard LeAnn Rimes play into the night – odd.

We woke properly at 08:00, but, as guessed, the train wouldn’t arrive at its scheduled time. However, the Vojvodina was beautiful. Severely flat, covered in corn crops or sunflowers, it was a rural idyll. We travelled along at a leisurely pace until Belgrade was in the distance. We passed over the mighty Danube (or Dunav), which was a good 400-500 meters wide. Forest on one side, and urbania on the other. At a snail’s pace we meandered through the city to our station. Another glorious day to welcome us to a new city.


We departed our train then went to reservations. We needed information on our separate train journeys on Friday. The lady there, speaking great English, said that there was a straight through train to Sarajevo. That was for 08:15. For the Ljubljana train too, it was straight through at 10:20. Neither needed a reservation.We left the Austro-Hungarian inspired building of canary yellow and walked uphill to the centre. 


The geography of the city does explain why it was a favoured bastion for all past empires and nations. Before we reached the main shopping street, we turned back and could see New Belgrade across the Sava. New bridges connecting to something akin to a financial centre. Around us were the odd Soviet block, but they were dominated by their Austro-Hungarian counterparts. We walked up the shopping street, very similar to Cardiff on a sunny afternoon, and left it by one block to reach our hostel.

We climbed the five flights of stairs to it and were warmly received. Our room was just being prepared, so we were told to wait. We checked up on the Internet, whilst the hostess took our passports. 15 minutes later we were in our room. It was a double, but small yet comfortable. We showered then went exploring. We continued our walk up the modern shopping street, with table and chairs scattered everywhere for all the cafés and restaurants. At the end we crossed the road in to the park that contained the Kalegdan Fortress. We wondered through the trees and souvenir stalls to reach the western part of the outer wall. The views were exceptional. High walls meant you could see down, as well as across. New Belgrade was on a hill too; in the distance, Zemun. Just before the Sava linked up to the Danube proper, a part of the Danube seeps in a kilometer beforehand creating an island – War Island to be exact. A massive forest engulfing the island at the confluence of the two rivers. The Sava a tad greener than the Danube, a duller green/grey.


We walked clockwise around the walls, we passed Ali Pasha’s tomb in the grounds, an Austro-Hungarian wooden house, then a church. The fortifications were robust, especially its buttresses. We found a café in the walls so stopped for a beer. The views behind us were awe inspiring. 


As the heat progressed, we walked back into town, via the purchasing of souvenirs, then found a café to eat in. Service was slow but my savoury pancake was to die for. We then went shopping for the first time on our trip. Liam bought a nice top, and I saw some English books on the area’s history. After a walkabout, we returned to our hostel.

After a refreshing sleep we then went out for dinner. This was on Liam as a thank you. We walked past Republic Square on to the Skardarijia. This was a cobbled street on a low rise hill that was dimly lit. It has about 15 restaurants on and was pleasant in the evening sun. We went to one on the corner that had a band playing. The waiter took our drinks order and offered us a starter. This is where the feeling of Skopje began to return. He brought over some toast and hummus, then took our main meal order. We both ordered steak. Our candle was lit, and we were sat on homemade log benches and table. It was lovely appreciating the hustle and bustle.

Then our true starter arrived, a massive portion on prosciutto, cream cheese, tomatoes, lettuce, butter/cream and starch muffins. We ate a quarter of it. Then our beef came. It was massive and lovely, but we ordered a salad too. We didn’t touch that. We declined dessert.



We left then walked down the leafy street and turned left. We reached a bar with an outside area and had some cocktails whilst chatting. We left at 22:00 and slept. 

Wednesday, 23 July 2014

My Images of SEE – 20:57, Tuesday 16th August

We arrived at the hotel, and then freshened up. We went to the bar and had a beer while reading. It was quiet in the hotel, only us and the reception staff. Later on a couple went to the restaurant are and ate, joined by another two tables later still. An English man bar then a Romanian joined him. The Romanian asked what he was doing here. He replied “Business”. The Romanian then asked if he was bringing a woman back to his room. He said no. The Romanian then persistently badgered him about it. The English guy did well, but why do people have to be brash about it. We left after an hour and slept. And gosh did we sleep. From 22:00 until 09:15 the next day – like logs.

We awoke fresh, yet dozey. We decided upon an Ibis breakfast – so we went downstairs and asked to put it on our invoice. We filled up for the day in the shadow of the Parliament building.

I asked reception for our check out time. 12:00 she said. Excellent. We went back up, and read for a while, then slowly got showered, changed and packed. We went downstairs for 11:45, paid, then left our luggage there for later.

We walked up to Izvor park, and its Metro station. We caught the train to Piata Unirii, changed, then onwards to Piata Victoriei. 


The Metro system is small, yet dazzingly modern in a not so modern city. Both comfort and uneasiness came with an armed guard on each train. They were similar to the German U-Bahn ones that have no connected parts, but are hollow from front to back like a fleshed out snake. We arrived at Piata Victoriei, and reached ground level. It was a massive expanse of concrete with confusing traffic measures, a car park seemingly in the middle, and surrounded ¾ in the way by past Soviet buildings. 


We were here though for another purpose. That was, to the north, the Museum of the Romanian Peasant. We located it within 300 yards of the Piata, in a building seemingly constructed for its purpose. Its surroundings were leafy and suburban. We went in and viewed the exhibition in 4 parts.


The first part was mostly wood cross carvings and religious iconography on wood. However, there was an original village church hut that they moved here. No more than a shack, but it held the village together via faith. The second part was an extension of the collective prayer theme previous. There they had a massive boat-like construction that was another prayer room. The third was more ethnographical and to my taste. Upstairs it had male and female clothes, pottery, and kitchenware – and again, a massive construction. It was an actual village house. It had a dark, aged wood as its material of construction, obviously weathered through time. It had an ‘allsorts’ part for tools and labouring. It had a kitchen, and then a bedroom. The attic was used for storage and, quaintly, Christmas decorations. The final part was a look at Soviet propaganda in the village, but basically contained busts of Lenin and portraits of past Romanian leaders. 


We got some bits from the gift shop then left. We went back on the Metro to the university then walked to the Romanian History Museum. However, it was closed. So we went for a coffee on the Strad Lipscani. This was the quarter that had a load of cafes and bars, and was in receipt of EU funding. 


We had a coffee, but a disturbed man was kicking off, first with people, then with dogs, some 50 yards away. So I said we should leave and we did. We went to the shopping area and killed time by having a look around. We then walked back to Lipscani. The temperature and sun was unbearable at this point, so we found an Irish Pub, went in a supped two ‘pints’ slowly. This ws the first time we found an internet connection, so we caught up on e-mails. We then walked around the corner to an Italian and sat outside.


The street was becoming busier now. We had a lovely and fulfilling meal then walked through Piata Unirii one last time, up the boulevard to the Parliament. The sun was nearing dusk now. We walked around the Parliament back to the hotel. We picked up our luggage then walked around Izvor park to the Metro, catching it to Gara de Nord. We entered Gara de Nord, which was bustling with activity, and noticed Beograd on the departures – ‘Lina 2’. So we got some snacks from the kiosk and waited on the platform. 


At 20:30 our train arrived, fresh and ready for the journey. We showed our ticket to the carriage guard and he nodded us on. The cabin was luxurious. A 3 seater in the day, it was now a two person bunk. A sink, complimentary water and morning bag/pack. It was lovely. We settled in before it departed into the night. Our attendant came to check the tickets, and took ours until Belgrade.

Monday, 21 July 2014

My Images of SEE – 19:53, Monday 15th August

So by 21:30 last night, we cracked open the beer and tested out the collapsible cups. Liam’s small one worked, however, my large one began to leak after a while, so we gave up. The younger lad wanted to go to sleep, so we all retired then. Surprisingly, aside from the heat, getting to sleep was OK.

We awoke at sometime in the morning for a ticket inspection by the Bulgarian officers. I then drifted back to sleep. At 02:00 or 03:00 we woke again at customs who checked out passports. We were fine, but our co-travellers didn’t have proper papers. We found out that they were Turkish actually, of Greek descent. We then slowly went to sleep again. We then had another tap at the door later for the Romanian customs. Again, we were fine, but problems with our colleagues. They had a visa, but a transit one, not a visiting one. I think the elder one settled it by saying he had a hotel reservation.

We then slept, by 6am my alarm went off, but still no where near. We got woken up by our Russian carriage hostess. This was at 08:45. We packed up our bedding and handed it in before getting our belongings and waiting to disembark. Once we did, the station we entered looked worn, but western. We made for the exit, and to follow my maps to the hotel. About 5 minutes into our journey a guy stopped us. Liam was weary. He said not to go any further down the road, it was ‘Gypsy Town’. We looked perplexed. He said that with the backpacks, we would look like tourists and will be …(he then motioned a fist into the palm of his hand to indicate ‘roughed up’) We turned around and went back to the train station. Luckily I had spare Euro’s, so I changed enough for a taxi (as the ATM was broke), but when we left the station I noticed the Metro. We took this to Izvor, then walked around the park to the back of the Parliament.

It was 09:30 and hot already. We went in to dump our bags, but our room was ready. This was a very, very welcome surprise. We showered, then slept right through to 13:50. I was apprehensive about leaving the hotel since the ‘Gypsy Town’ remark. Actually, more about the fist action. However, we walked up to the river, following it east towards Piata Unirii. To the west was the Parliament building. It was massive, kind of out of place, but elegant all the same. It certainly fit into its surroundings, including the boulevard we were on. 


After pictures, we then went to a shopping mall. I guiltily had our 3rd McDonalds since being here. However, we hadn’t eaten properly since lunchtime in Sofia. We then walked up one boulevard, past the university, grabbing an ice cream. The then turned left to where the university library was, onto Piata Revolutiei. There was the Royal Palace that looked very grand in this well kept quarter. Turning south, we then saw the now Senate building, but was where Ceausescu made his ill-fated speech, 4 days before being executed. I expected the square to be bigger to be honest.


We then walked down to a small arcade of café’s, all supplying shisha. It was very aromatic. 2 minutes away we located a Turkish restaurant, which we attended. The food, cocktails and baklava were excellent, but our dearest meal to date, that being £40 total max. 


We then continued south to the end of the boulevard, then over the river and right to the corner of the Parliament. That square was the most recent/modern of all we had seen. Even the 1980’s reconstruction now looked worn. However, everywhere there were facades of buildings from the time it was dubbed ‘the Paris of the East’, but they fell into disrepair.


We walked to the front of the awesome parliament, and gazed down the never-ending boulevard. The Piata in front of us was certainly grand, but doesn’t to my mind serve any purpose in being that big. We then followed the perimeter to our hotel.

Monday, 23 June 2014

My Images of SEE – 21:51, Sunday 14th August

Post iced coffee/book reading chill out, we walked to the main square, then on to the department store where Liam thought he saw a currency exchange desk. However there wasn’t one. However, on passing through the Metro station, I spied one there, so we made for that. I changed Leva to the value of €70 – great! We then visited the café we went to yesterday afternoon. We spent 1hr 45 there just reading and surfing the net on our phones and chatting; over water and Schweppes Tangerine. That got us to 6pm. We then walked to a DM store, away from the hostel, and bought toilet roll. The we went to a pharmacy for indigestion tablets for Liam. Then we bought water and beer near the hostel for the train ride.

Upon our return, our bags were in order, and I looked at the Internet while Liam read. We then had a game of pool while the residents ate. I won, naturally. We then asked the girl on the desk about hailing a taxi. She said she would book one for us. So at 19:45 she did and he arrived promptly. She walked us to it too, and gave the Cabbie instructions. For 4 Leva we were whisked to the station for 20:00.

Upon arrival, a man looking slightly like Mario asked if we wanted help. We obliged him and he showed us our carriage, and then our berth. We gave him 4 Leva as a note of thanks. Then he demanded €20. I said we had no money (Leva at least) and showed him my empty wallet. He lingered and repeated ’20 Euro, 20 dollar’. So Liam gave in and gave him €20. He soon f***ed off. Cheeky sod! However, aside from that, the sleeper was a palace! Leather seats, side table, a top/down leather shutter. It was hot though.



We packed our luggage under one side, and then sat down. Our fellow travelers also arrived. They were a Greek pair, father and son. Very nice. We chatted to the son whilst the father cooled down in the corridor. We then had some of our beer once we had departed. The sunset was beautiful. A lovely set of cascading colours from yellow, orange, pink then red. Wonderful. We set up our beds with the sheets the Russian attendant gave us (as the train was destined for Moscow). We relaxed then once the younger Greek lad made for bed, we all did so. But what a luxury this carriage is in comparison to some of the dumps that we have seen.






Tuesday, 17 June 2014

My Images of SEE – 14:10, Sunday 14th August

So at the hostel we just opted for the free beer, leaving the pasta for tonight. As we sat on a large U-shaped sofa, a young lad from Bristol was sat next to us. He had just finished uni, so wanted to spend as much money as possible before starting his job in September. He was 3 weeks into his 6 week trip. We chatted about where he had been, and where he is going to. He said he’s off south – to Skopje. We gave him our positive opinion of the place. However, the opposite was in store for us when we mentioned Bucharest. ‘Spend one day there’, he said. Thankfully, we are: with that he left, so we went on the PC’s for 20 minutes.


We then walked past our apartment to a restaurant a couple of blocks up that served ‘traditional Bulgarian food’. The venue looked 150 years old architecturally, but was nicely painted red with white features. We entered via a side courtyard, and got taken inside to our table. The interior was homelike but with guns on the walls. I wondered how ‘Bulgarian’ that was. We ordered a bottle of local red, which was lovely, when all of a sudden the House 3-piece band started playing. A drummer, guitarist and & accordion player stood next to a group in a nearby room. Afterwards they played near us, with a familiar tune. It was Careless Whisper by George Michael!


We had a starter of cooked Goat’s Cheese, thin pitta-like bread, Blueberry Jam and roasted ring of apple. It was amazing. Liam then had chicken with asparagus – which turned out to be babycorn. I had mixed meatballs and ‘sausage’, which was lovely and filling. The spices went well with the red wine. It did take a bit of time between courses, but the dessert was amazing – Walnut Cake with ice cream. The bill only 60 Lev - £30! Bargain.

So we left, departing with our bag, and went to the hostel’s bar. It was 7 doors down from the hostel and on the first floor of a tall block. As we walked in only a small group of people were there. The barman gave us our free shot. Something green and strong. Liam had a coke, and me a vodka with ice. For an hour and a half we sat there and chatted, as a large group came in and entertained themselves behind us (we were at a bar running across the window). Then another, smaller group came in. The larger group of mixed nationalities 30 minutes after their arrival, and soon after, so did we. We then slept through the night until 09:00 this morning.

We got our rags on and went over to breakfast a little early. Liam had bread and cheese, I had bread with a lesser known brand of Nutella. I was feeling tender. We then got back to the apartment, wash and changed, then packed. We walked back to the hostel, and I settled the bill. We could leave our baggage under the watchful eye of the receptionist/manager. So we departed then for a second day of exploring.


We walked the route to the main square, the right heading south down bul. Vitosha. This has many western shops on and about halfway down, before the park, we stopped for a coffee. After our break from the sun, we continued to the park. It was a lovely wide park with parallel tree lines on either side of a wide pedestrian boulevard, centred with a series of water pools. As it stretched south, it culminated in fountains. Behind those was a behemoth of a construction. 



The Palace of Culture may make it seem grand, but it looked like a 1970’s hypermall. Behind that was Mt. Vitosha. A lovely view. We walked towards it, then beyond it to ‘lover’s bridge’. But it was a damp squib, so we walked back to the top of the park, and turned left down a main street that took us to the bottom of the shopping street we were on yesterday. 


We walked up this, then back into town where we entered a food place we saw yesterday. We had a fulfilling meal and then walked to the Museum of Natural History. Basically stuffed animals. But it wasted another hour of the day. We then walked the way we came, via a park, so sat there and read for a short while, before going into Costa Coffee across the street. 

Wednesday, 28 May 2014

‘Skopje 2014’ – National identities, historiography, and cross border relations

The development project known as ‘Skopje 2014’, is a multi-million Euro transformation of Macedonia Square and its area either side of the river Vardar. Unveiled in February 2010, it leans heavily on a ‘classical antiquity’ style and comprises of buildings, statues, an arch and obelisk, as well as a new footbridge. Given the turbulent political context of relations with Greece, along with a volatile ethnic situation domestically with the Albanians, my objective is to analyse the varying factors that surround the present VMRO-DPMNE government’s attempts to strengthen Macedonian national identity through Skopje’s urban landscape.

Laura Kolbe (‘Central and Eastern European capital cities’, in Planning Perspectives, 2007) conducted fascinating research into the presentation of Eastern European cities to the West via websites, and how capital cities in post-Socialism are seeking to portray themselves in a ‘European’ manner. I seek to invert this thesis and argue that ‘Skopje 2014’ is a project led by the current VMRO-DPMNE government’s nationalist discourse to ‘nationalise’ the city of Skopje for its ethnic Macedonian, domestic audience. Two problems arise from this and are intertwined. Firstly, the symbolism of the project affects relations with Greece; therefore I will seek to address the conflicting claims to Macedonian history and its impact on Macedonian national identity in view of the contemporary relations between these two states. Secondly, the location of the buildings and the perspective the individual takes alters depending on ethnicity and location within the city. As such, I will address recent ethnic Macedonian and Albanian tensions, which centre on the question of nationality, and link these to how ‘Skopje 2014’ could further entrench negative perceptions of the ‘Other’.

To deal with the first problem, I will use Benedict Anderson’s thesis (Imagined Communities, 2007) where he proposed the ‘following definition of the nation: it is an imagined political community – and imagined as both inherently limited and sovereign.’ In this sense, an analysis of Macedonian national identity needs to be understood in the context of the nation being a creation, albeit in constant construction, whose limits and sovereignties overlap on to other nations. And because, as Victor Roudometof (Collective Memory, National Identity, and Ethnic Conflict, 2007) says, at ‘the heart of the dispute lies the thesis that the Republic is the official homeland of the Macedonian nation.’, one needs to trace the emergence of Macedonia as a republic from the mid to late 19th century when national identities in the region began forming and interacting.

The geographical region known as Macedonia was mostly ruled over in its entirety, for over 400 years by the Ottoman Empire, up until the end of the Balkan Wars of 1912/13, albeit with a short spell in an autonomous Bulgaria in the 1870s. During this time, the communities that lived there identified more with their religious confession or language. However after the Treaty of Berlin in 1878 interest in the region grew, due to its strategic geographic position, from those national groups with coterminous state boundaries surrounding it, along with the Great Powers who dictated the terms of the Treaty. So, according to Jelavich and Jelavich (The Establishment of the Balkan National States, 1804-1920, 1977), Bulgaria, Greece and Serbia for ‘the last two decades of the nineteenth century […] entered into a regular battle for predominance. Their weapons were the competing churches, educational establishments and national societies.’ The resulting problem was a plethora of fluid national identities that included Bulgarian, Greek, Serbian, Ottoman and a nucleus of Macedonian in an area of conflicting claims over territory. After the two Balkan Wars in 1912/13, Macedonia as a region became split amongst 3 states. It was not until 1945 that the current territorial boundaries of the present day Republic of Macedonia came into being as a republic within Yugoslavia.

Victor Roudometof’s explanation of this period reads of ‘national narratives’ emerging prior to the Balkan Wars; yet for him the failure of inter-war Greek and Serb cultural homogenisation projects was the turning point for ‘Macedonian’ to be viewed as a ‘national’ identity instead of a regional one. In his view, the post-1945 period was the starting point for the articulation of a Macedonian ‘national narrative’, with the support of the institutions of the second Yugoslavia, geared towards nation building. So after 1945, people grew up and lived in a Macedonian national culture with a Macedonian national identity. In other words, a Macedonian nation only began to emerge after a territorial state was created to support the development of an exclusive ‘national narrative’. Ulf Braunnbauer points to historians and historiography as aiding the construction of this ‘national narrative’ because ‘Macedonian historiography had a nationalist perspective from the very beginning.’ This is because historiography was needed after 1945 to consolidate Macedonian national identity to counter perceived Bulgarian territorial expansion.

This constructivist observation of the development of Macedonian national identity leads to the current dispute between Greece and the Republic of Macedonia over the claim that the Republic is the home of the Macedonian nation. Evidently, ownership of Macedonian history is essential for one side to claim the nation (and thus identity) as their own, and this has been argued on both sides through claims to historical continuity. Loring Danforth (The Macedonian Conflict, 1995) believes ‘The view of history on which the argument for the Greekness of Macedonia is ultimately based is quintessential nationalist history that reifies both the Greek nation and Greek culture and seeks to demonstrate the unbroken continuity of the “Greek” race and “Hellenism” from the dawn of history to the present.’ Therefore Greece rejects the dual notion of a Macedonian nation within a Republic of Macedonia because they claim ownership of Macedonian history through continuity. Some Macedonians do try and counter this with their own version of continuity to antiquity, but most focus on the classic cultural reawakening of ‘Macedonian’ in the 19th century that underpins modern Macedonian nationalist thought. Ulf Braunnbauer ((Re)Writing History, 2004) sees this as a continuation of the ‘national history’ paradigm, in to the post-Socialist era. This is due to the lack of funds which deprive researchers access to external ideas, a government that still monopolises research; and researchers who feel obliged to focus on a specific era (19th and 20th centuries) for fear of becoming unemployed for speaking out against their elders. Therefore Macedonians are still only able to focus on researching their ‘own’ national history so that they can continue to legitimize their national identity by adding to the Macedonian ‘national narrative’. So what we have are two states who have different claims to some elements of the same history, whilst simultaneously trying to deny the other’s claim.

So how does the ‘Skopje 2014’ contribute to this reification of nationalist history? If the Macedonian ‘national narrative’ is an ongoing phenomenon even in post-Socialism, then ‘Skopje 2014’ attempts to further consolidate national identity symbolically in the city. ‘Conceptualised as an attempt to reshape the capital’s outlook by adorning the city centre with numerous monuments […] the project has been criticized as yet another dimension of the overall endeavour to redefine the public space, to bring about historical revisionism and to effect the invention of traditions.’ This is how Ljubica Spaskovska (In Search of a Demos, 2010) observes the project. Even before this project was announced other symbolic gestures were made in and around Skopje to complement the renewed attempt to solidify Macedonian national identity through a nationalist discourse of history: the renaming of the city airport to Alexander the Great, the naming of the city stadium after Philip II, the construction of a Christian Cross to commemorate 2000 years of Christianity, the use of the Vergina Sun symbol on the Republic’s flag, and so on. One could even question the intent of building the Mother Teresa memorial house as an attempt to claim her for Macedonia, even though she was born into the Ottoman Empire. Therefore the additions to the urban landscape continue in this reification process: The Alexander the Great statue in Macedonia Square, statues of leaders of the Ilinden Uprising of 1903 and religious figures, buildings in ‘classical antiquity’ style including a museum and so on.

But one can’t place this in the urban landscape alone in space and time. Cities are constructs too, and are representative of the varying political, economic and cultural discourses that the city has gone through. Just as one can’t create a homogenous community motionless in time, a city is a collage of all that came before leading to the present. Nuala Johnson, in her study on ‘monuments, geography, and nationalism’ (‘Set in Stone’, in Environment and Planning D: Society and Space, 1995), states that ‘geographers are just beginning to examine the relationships between memorialisation of the past and the spatialisation of public memory.’ These processes are being carried out with ‘Skopje 2014’. But problem the nationalist discourse has is that other histories are present that it has to compete with, such as the Socialist one and Ottoman one, in buildings that remain in the city. These include the Stone Bridge, Old Bazaar, Kale Fortress, Socialist apartment blocks, shopping centre – along side modern capitalist constructs such as the Rammstore. However the Macedonian Government still attempts to coerce its ethnic Macedonian citizens into collectively remembering their national history, by presenting the ongoing ‘national narrative’ of an imagined history through ‘Skopje 2014’. Furthermore this attempt is a deliberate provocation of Greece by trying to devalue their national identity through claiming ownership of a shared history.

In tandem with this reification and display of Macedonian national identity comes the distancing of Albanians from ethnic Macedonians within the confines of an independent Macedonian nation-state. I seek to narrow this to the two sides of the river Vardar where ‘Skopje 2014’ is placed, by looking at the demographics of the two municipalities that comprise it, Tsentar and Chair. The 2002 population census shows that in the Tsentar municipality of 45,412, 38,778 or 85% were Macedonian, and 1465 or 3% were Albanian. The 64,773 residents of Chair municipality comprised of 15,628 or 24% Macedonian and 36,921 or 57% Albanian. The rest of the population was made up of other minorities. Nationally the figure was 64% Macedonian and 25% Albanian. The conflict between these two groups was not based on a struggle over shared histories; instead theirs was a conflict over citizenship in the newly independent Macedonian state. Ljubica Spaskovska’s paper on citizenship and belonging presents a detailed narrative of how citizenship policy in Macedonia developed and contributed to the isolation of Albanians vis-à-vis their relations with Macedonians. The initial downgrading of their nationality in light of their position in the former Yugoslavia and inception of an ethno-national citizenship led to articulations of discontent and the desire for a new framework; in parallel to other factors accounting for Albanian discontent with the new state and its institutions. The Ohrid Framework Agreement in 2001 and the continued practice of consociational politics, just emphasise the differences between the two communities. So the relationship between nationality and citizenship can be expressed as the nationalisation of citizenship by the Macedonians, to the disadvantage of the Albanians. This feeds into insecurities that Albanians have regarding the rise of Macedonian cultural hegemony, and a lack of belonging to such a nationalized state.

Viewed in the post-socialist context of Skopje, one could see this as the pushing of minorities to the periphery or hiding them altogether. This is a mirror image of what Setha Low (‘The Anthropology of Cities’, in Annual Review of Anthropology, 1996) describes as a ‘Divided City’, the notion being that there are hidden barriers of race and class. The location of the buildings on the riverside is one example of how this idea can be linked to the spatial planning of ‘Skopje 2014’ in ethnic terms. If viewed from Macedonia Square, or read as a ‘Macedonian perspective’, then it blocks out the view of the Old Bazaar, and the Kale Fortress. Conversely, if one stands on the Albanian side of the Stone Bridge, the Albanian perspective is that of Alexander the Great on horseback striding towards the Albanians with the cross of Christ up upon the hillside behind. The former can be read as a wish to block out certain elements of non-nationalist history. This can also evident in the recent disputes over the renaming of city streets. The latter can be taken as an attempt to remind the Albanians of Macedonian cultural hegemony conjuring up an image of an historical leader ‘leading’ Macedonians across the river, as an attempt to rewrite history and to collectively ‘forget’ the presence of Albanians.

In conclusion, ‘Skopje 2014’ can be viewed as a continuation of 6 decades of Macedonian nation-building, in the form of urban planning and spatial development. On the one hand, it is an attempt by Macedonians to claim single ownership over Macedonian history against Greek attempts to do the same. This is present in the numerous symbolic processes undertaken and ongoing in the city of Skopje, in an almost ‘Andersonian’ attempt to (re)create an imagined Macedonian community. On the other, this attempt at developing a national narrative through ‘Skopje 2014’ is excluding the sizeable Albanian minority, already fearful of their place in the nation-state due to citizenship issue, compounded by their lack of presence in the present constructions of Skopje. This may be a matter of perspectives on the construction through the location of the individual in the city. So going back to Laura Kolbe, the Macedonian government is not looking externally to present the city to the world, but is looking internally to its domestic, Macedonian audience.

Addendum

Since writing this in early 2012, more constructs have occurred, and some political changes. The VMRO-DPMNE have recently won their third term in office, yet in the previous municipal elections they lost the Mayoralty for the area where the regeneration is occurring. This led to questions being raised about the hefty cost and  the possibility of halting the construction.

Further updates to the vista of constructions include galleons on the river, the ‘updating’ of commercial buildings on the square, and the transformation of the National Assembly building. All maintain the ‘national narrative’ of the ruling party. Yet, succour was paid to opponents both political and ethnic. Further statues were added recognizing socialist or communist ‘national’ heroes. Yet this just underpins the nationalist zeal with which the ruling party is imposing its version of history. It’s only of those it deems worthy of appearing in its nationalised public space.

In the Albanian area, a statue of Skanderbeg was allowed. But this reifies ethnic division on two levels. It allows Albanians to have ‘their’ own statue, but it is geographically placed outside of the arena where the other projects are occurring, thus symbolically isolating the Albanian community in the present. Yet it also isolates the Albanians historically as the choice of idol doesn’t fit in with the Macedonian ‘national narrative’, thus creating a separate (and deliberate) bridge between past and present for the Albanians. So the project has continued to pursue the path of division in the name of ‘a’ perspective of what being ‘Macedonian’ is meant to be.

Wednesday, 14 May 2014

My Images of SEE – 17:33, Sat 13th August

Had a lovely night’s sleep, but any dream of a lie-in was rudely disturbed by renovation work occurring downstairs. So we slowly woke up, and I dipped in for a shower. We walked across the road from our apartment to the main inn, where we entered upon a busy common room wrestling with a ‘buffet’ breakfast. I grabbed a seat, whilst Liam went ahead. Upon his return, I then got in line. One sale person was in charge, and things looked like they were running out. So I grabbed a slice of bread, some cheese, Apple juice and a milky tea. We devoured it then left.

Back at the apartment we set about our first round of washing. I washed whilst Liam constructed a Crystal Maze style washing line – involving the windows and a nearby cupboard. He then rinsed and wringed the clothes whilst I did. We then packed and walked back up along the long road to the train station. The buildings went from Mid-1800 imperial, to small 1960 constructs, on to crumbling fronts by the time we approached the station. This was another Communist experiment, yet a recent addition was made at the front in the form of a massive tent.


We went to information, where a local lady in her mid 50’s recited the phrase “International desk” whilst pointing. Following her fingers, we reached our destination. We booked two couchettes in a cabin of 4 all for £16 – bargain! We then departed the station, armed with 2 bottles of water and a Coke, for another main road into the centre. Again, crumbling buildings led to 1960’s ones, that led to older, nicer ones. We reached a square with 5 attractive points.

First was the synagogue, tucked down a side street off the square, behind the second point of interest. It had 4 points rising, and its central, larger point too. We then walked through an old building that contained a modern market. Meats, nuts, fruit, mixed with beauty products & cafes. We then appeared at the square again. We crossed the road to get on to the main part of the square, and then saw the mosque. Very impressive it was too, akin to the one in Skopje. Behind it were the ruins of the old baths. Nearby was a fountain, and behind two old former baths looking opulent. To the left of them, over an adjoining road, were several taps of hot spring water. We bottled a bit of the warm stuff, but decided to pour it away afterwards.


We then walked via the metro (to bypass the roadworks) to the next square that had the Orthodox Church on it, but to the east had the modern Presidency. As we walked past, we peered to our right. In the Presidential courtyard was an old church. We could freely walk in, so we did. It was such a juxtaposition, that church and the modern, neo-classical construct encircling it. We then exited via a different route and saw the old Communist headquarters. A ‘V’ shaped building facing west, it was imposing and impressive. South of it, on a plaza, was an old Orthodox church, now an archaeological museum. So we went in. 


75% of it was early Roman/Greek ruins. Statues, headstones, pots, carvings, coins. All very interesting. 25% was Christian Orthodox frescoes. Liam did ponder whether the building was Greek Orthodox (as the roof was glossed white, but cracks exposed some paintings underneath).We then departed and walked on the southern fork of the road split by the ‘Party HQ’, that took us to the largest Orthodox Church in the Balkans. It had a massive dome of gold, and was adjacent to the Assembly building. 


We then cut down a side street to the main shopping street, stopping for a blended ice coffee on the way. We walked up the shopping street to the main square, where we had lunch and cocktails for an hour, before heading back to our room. After our rest, we went over to the main hostel.